Brief History of Viscose Shawls
1. What is Viscose?
Viscose is a type of semi-synthetic fiber also known as rayon, made from natural cellulose, primarily derived from wood pulp (often from trees like beech, pine, or eucalyptus). Although the raw material is natural, the production process involves chemical treatment, which makes viscose a regenerated cellulose fiber—neither fully natural nor fully synthetic.
2. History and Origin
Viscose was first developed in the late 19th century as an alternative to silk. It was commercially introduced in the early 1900s and became popular because it mimicked the luxurious feel and drape of silk but was far more affordable.
● Invented by: Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle in 1891.
● First commercial name: "Art Silk" or artificial silk.
3. Raw Material: What is it Made From?
Viscose is derived from cellulose, a natural polymer found in the cell walls of plants. The most common sources are:
● Wood pulp (from fast-growing trees like eucalyptus, bamboo, or pine)
● Cotton linters (short fibers left after ginning cotton)
4. How is Viscose Made? (Production Process)
The process of making viscose involves several chemical and mechanical steps:
Step 1: Steeping
● Wood pulp is dissolved in sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) to produce alkali cellulose.
Step 2: Pressing
● The alkali cellulose is pressed to remove excess liquid and rolled into sheets.
Step 3: Aging
● These sheets are then aged under controlled conditions for a few days to oxidize.
Step 4: Xanthation
● The aged alkali cellulose reacts with carbon disulfide, forming cellulose xanthate, which turns orange-yellow.
Step 5: Dissolving
● Cellulose xanthate is dissolved in diluted sodium hydroxide, forming a thick, honey-like liquid called viscose solution.
Step 6: Spinning
● The viscose solution is forced through fine nozzles (spinnerets) into an acid bath (usually sulfuric acid), which regenerates the cellulose into solid fibers.
Step 7: Washing and Finishing
● The fibers are washed, bleached, and sometimes chemically treated to improve their properties (e.g., strength, softness).
5. Properties of Viscose
| Property | Description |
|---|---|
| Appearance | Smooth, soft, shiny, and silk-like |
| Feel | Soft and comfortable on the skin |
| Breathability | Highly breathable and absorbent |
| Drape | Excellent drape, often used in fashion |
| Dyeability | Easily dyed in vibrant colors |
| Eco-friendliness | Biodegradable (but not entirely eco-friendly due to chemicals used) |
| Weakness | Tends to weaken when wet, wrinkles easily |
6. Uses of Viscose
Viscose is widely used in the textile and fashion industries. Some common applications include:
● Clothing: Dresses, blouses, suits, shawls, linings, skirts
● Home textiles: Curtains, bed sheets, upholstery
● Industrial use: Tire cords, medical textiles
● Blended fabrics: Often blended with cotton, wool, or synthetic fibers like polyester
7. Advantages of Viscose
● Feels like natural fibers (cotton or silk)
● Affordable and versatile
● Excellent moisture absorption
● Drapes well and has a luxurious sheen
8. Disadvantages of Viscose
● Weak when wet (can shrink or distort)
● Prone to wrinkling and pilling
● Not highly durable
● Production involves toxic chemicals (e.g., carbon disulfide, sulfuric acid), which can harm workers and the environment if not managed properly
9. Is Viscose Eco-Friendly?
While viscose is biodegradable and made from renewable resources (like wood), the manufacturing process involves harmful chemicals and produces wastewater, making it less eco-friendly than it seems. However, new methods such as Lyocell/Tencel use closed-loop systems that recycle chemicals, making them safer alternatives.